Fifth entry in the series of posts in which we are compiling different terms in a glossary of footwear concepts (5) . Within our field, there are numerous terms that refer to important elements in the manufacture and design of shoes.
We continue with other concepts from the world of footwear arranged in alphabetical order.
Spliced cut
When assembling the shoe, the upper has been centered on the last and attached by gluing or stitching to the insole of the assembly, pending the placement of the sole.
Trimmed cuts
This refers to footwear that is already sewn and ready to be assembled on the last. Assembling the footwear by stitching, making pairs (right and left foot) is normally called "preparar".
Stitching the sole split or groove
The bottom of the soles usually has one slit, or two if it is in the wall rather than the bottom. Once the shoe is assembled, a bent-arm machine, special for sewing thick materials, sews the rubber sole through all the layers that make up the shoe.
Reverse seam
This refers to a seam that has been made to join two pieces together, then turned inside out so that the seam is hidden. A reverse seam is most often found on the neckline of a shoe, or in areas where it meets the inner lining. This type of seam is also used to hide the edges of materials used. To make the seam finer, the edges are often rolled back to remove thickness from the material before it is sewn.
Crouponer
The butt is the most valued, robust and largest part of the cowhide. It is approximately 5 to 8 mm thick, water-resistant and temperature-resistant. This type of leather is widely used for soles and heels.
Cuban
Type of shoe manufacturing in which the sole is glued first and the heel is superimposed on it.
